Between 1920 and 1950, the greatest number of pieces of jewelry were characterized by the rich metal and precious stones employed in their manufacture, in addition to an extremely professional technique and a justness handwork.
Nevertheless, at the end of this period of time, some artists like Alexander Calder (1898-1976) very well known by his mobiles, burst through the scene of jewelry.
It is logical that Calder became interested in sculpture and jewelry since that both entangle movement and three dimensions.
It is logical that Calder became interested in sculpture and jewelry since that both entangle movement and three dimensions.
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| Alexander Calder |
This new wave of creators becomes a new option for the bohemian consumers, sending a message against capitalism.
Calder's jewels are a tiny version of his sculptures, where we can find not only the form but also the movement.
Calder's jewels are a tiny version of his sculptures, where we can find not only the form but also the movement.
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Silver earrings Alexander Calder |
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Silver earrings Alexander Calder |
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Silver earrings A03842 Alexander Calder c. 1940 |
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Silver earrings A16653 Alexander Calder c. 1940 |
He created more than 1800 jewels, all of them unique and done by himself, for his family (he made his declaration of love with a spiral-shaped ring made by himself) and for his friend's wifes: Duchamp, Buñuel, Miró, Chagall, etc.
He began when he was 8 years old making jewels for his sister's dolls.
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Silver and steel leaf-shaped brooch Calder Foundation, New York A16776 Alexander Calder c. 1942 |
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Silver bracelet Calder Foundation, New York A16779 Alexander Calder c. 1942 |
His pieces of jewelry, made in wire, silver, gold, copper, brass and found by chance objects like ceramic, crystal, wood, etc, became his second source of ingress during the war period, notwithstanding were not created to be sold.
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Brass, wire, glass and mirror flower necklace Calder Foundation, New York A17019 Alexander Calder c. 1938 |
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Silver and ceramics necklace Alexander Calder |
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Wood and leather necklace Calder Foundation, New York A16654 Alexander Calder |
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Brass, ceramic and rope necklace Alexander Calder |
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Brass, glass and mirrors flower brooch Alexander Calder |
Stroking with a hammer, bending, chiseling or twisting the metals, he creates his objects. He seldom welds elements and he doesn't polish the surfaces.
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Spiral Necklace Alexander Calder |
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Silver spiral bracelet Alexander Calder |
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Silver necklace Calder Foundation, New York A01283 Alexander Calder c. 1945 |
Sir Kenneth Clark asks him to design a tiara for his wife. Generally this pieces are made with valuable and uncommon materials but not on simple brass.
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Brass tiara Commissioned by Sir Kenneth Clark Alexander Calder |
We find a great inspiration and some references to different cultures like the African one (he was an African Art collector as many as his contemporary artists), Pre Columbian, Celtic, etc.
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Gold bracelet Calder Foundation, New York A00593 Alexander Calder c. 1947 |
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Silver fish brooch Calder Foundation, New York A01277 Alexander Calder c. 1945 |
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Luisa's brooch in silver and steel Calder Foundation, New York A03834 Alexander Calder c. 1945 |
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Silver bracelet Calder Foundation, New York A16778 Alexander Calder c. 1945 |
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Silver necklace Alexander Calder |
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Silver, rope and ribbon necklace Alexander Calder c. 1943 |
His jewels are characterized by the selection of the employed materials and the usage of simple forms made very often on wire, which is an important material for his sculptures and the favorite for his jewels.
The spiral, symbol of fertility, is one of his favorite forms.
The spiral, symbol of fertility, is one of his favorite forms.
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Brass hair comb Calder Foundation, New York A01275 Alexander Calder c. 1940 |
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Gold and wire spiral brooch Louisa's Calder gift for her 53 birthday Alexander Calder c.1958 |
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Brass bracelet Calder Foundation, New York A16780 Alexander Calder c. 1935 |
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Brass necklace Calder Foundation, New York A16656 Alexander Calder c. 1936 |
Women like Peggy Guggenheim, Georgia O'Keeffe, Simone de Beauvoir, wore his jewels.
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| Peggy Guggenheim |
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| Geogia O'Keeffe |
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| Simone de Beauvoir |